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modelbarge.info • View topic - Paint
Page 1 of 1

Paint

PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 4:37 pm
by bob smith
Hi Everybody
Just a quick question, what is the best type of paint to use on my Lady D, water based or cellulose
Bob

Re: Paint

PostPosted: Sun Feb 05, 2012 9:17 pm
by kimosubby shipyards
Well Bob,

I have just spent the last two weeks painting my LD and I went for acrylic (water) as I find it easier to use, can spray indoors without vapours and fumes to worry over, any waste is water soluble, and due to the current cold spell I can manage the job even at low temperatures ie below 10'C as it is in my attic most of the time.
Cellulose will be ok but there are the fumes and the flammable components to consider, as well as the requirement for a substantially higher temperature when doing the spraying at least 15'C I'd say.
And of course there's enamels as well.

Halford's do a goodly range of suitable colours for hulls, especially the black, red and yellow under coats/primers/fillers combinations and I always stock up with them when I'm on your big Island. These are also compatible with either enamel or acrylic paint.

HULL PAINTING.
This is how I done mine:-
my hull is plank on frame, so I sealed the wood with a sanding sealer;
rubbed down;
undercoat/primer Halford's grey;
rubbed down gently;
marked water line using a laser for guidance;
sprayed lower hull (bottom) with Halford's red primer/filler;
then sprayed same area with acrylic red with about 5 coats of 2:1 watered Humbrol (14ml paint + 7ml water).
transferred the water line over and re-checked position with laser;
sprayed upper hull with black Halford's primer/filler;
rubbed down gently;
sprayed about 5 coats acrylic 2:1 Humbrol mat black.
That all took about 8 days.
Final finishing was with acrylic mat varnish (Ronseal) with brush! Rubbed down after first coat, then two more coats to be added once I've added the metal fixtures for shroud plates and such.

Whilst the above was being done, the deck area was masked off. The only areas painted here were the margin plank (white), sides of hatch openings above deck (buff) and inside stern bulwark (buff). The areas where the side bulwarks are to be fixed were kept masked after all the other spraying, and the entire deck varnished. This masking was then stripped leaving bare wood for the bulwarks to be glued to (aliphatic and bamboo trenails), and the capping rail to be added.

Hull basics done, almost.
I made the bulwarks separately and these are sprayed up lined and decorated ready to attach.

Kimosubby

There's a picture in my album as of today, Monday

Re: Paint

PostPosted: Mon Feb 06, 2012 9:03 pm
by bob smith
Thanks Kim for the information, I noticed one or two things by studying your photo, your companion ways seem to be paint white I have vanished mine in satin oak also the large piece of wood half way done the top of the hull where the lee boards go, do I need that there as I have reinforced inside the hull with plywood.
Bob

Re: Paint

PostPosted: Tue Feb 07, 2012 11:55 am
by kimosubby shipyards
Hi Bob, an answer to your observations.

The companion way in my photograph is still in "ply" and will be finished off with planking and doors, painted buff front and sides, and the top canvas covered and coloured maroon as on the LD now.

The bulwarks are the full length of the hull.

I now notice that you have a gap and looking at the plans can see why. On the "General arrangement plan" No 76, the lower deck plan, look at the upper port side just above the lee board. Here is printed "BULWARK TAKEN OUT TO FULL BREADTH OF HULL IN WAY OF MAIN RIGGING" and the extent is shown by arrows. So, yes, you need to add not only the rigging chock, as this reinforcement is known, but the missing bulwarks too.
If, as I do, you colour in the plan lines for the bulwarks, you will see they run the full length. Also, if you then goto the ELEVATION at the top of drawing 76 and colour in the lines for the "covering board white", the top of this colouring is deck level, so all above it is the bulwark profile. You'll see then that the bulwarks run full length bow to stern and that there is an additional height added towards the stern being the quarter boards.

Now, you'll be able to appreciate that the leeboard's pivot, the "mushroom type toggle" is passed through the rigging chock just above deck level and is "tied" across the deck to the main mast case - NOT as you surmise, through the hull where you have reinforced. That will help with securing the chain plates, to which is attached the lower dead eyes for the shrouds anchor points, hence the chock's name. Also note that the "fore horse" to which the foresail sheet is attached, is secured to this rigging chock as well, (a little ahead of the lee board pivots), using a simple rounded bolt down strap. So the rigging chock is sum what essential!

Another small chock (not shown in correct position on the deck plan) is required where the lee board sheave is located, about 30mm long, not the full breadth as the rigging chock, but sufficient for the run of the sheave to pass cleanly down the hull side to the lee board, but not permitting the sheave block to be proud of the outer hull profile about the lee boards. The elevation shows the sheave positioning correctly, on the bulwarks, the deck plan shows it on the hull.

The cleats inside the bulwarks on the port and starboard quarters are also fixed to chocks, but these are on the inside on the bulwarks but these are not shown on the plan.

I hope that fully answers your observations up to now. I have several images from the web of LD if you want to see them, its from these that I unravel detail on the plans. The plans are good, photos with plans are much better.

Kimosubby.

Re: Paint

PostPosted: Tue Feb 07, 2012 2:00 pm
by kimosubby shipyards
Bob,

here's a cropped image showing some of the above posting by me.

tbLDStbdLB.jpg
Rigging board, lee board and continuous bulwark
tbLDStbdLB.jpg (142.42 KiB) Viewed 3973 times


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